Preheat the oven to 230°C / 450°F.

Pierce the eggplants in several places with a knife or fork. Place them on a baking tray lined with baking paper and roast for about 40 minutes, until completely soft.

We’ll finish the beğendi sauce later. For now, while the eggplants are roasting, move on to cooking the lamb stew.

Heat a large pan over medium-high heat and melt the butter. Add the lamb and brown it on all sides. Don’t overcrowd the pan — if needed, work in batches. The meat should sit in a single layer so it browns nicely instead of releasing its juices. Transfer the browned lamb to a plate and set aside.

In the same pan, add the onions and cook until softened. Add the garlic and cook for about 15 seconds, stirring constantly. Add the tomatoes and tomato paste and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring. Return the lamb to the pan and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring. Add the salt, black pepper, and oregano (or thyme).

Pour in the hot water (about 350 ml / 1½ cups), just enough to cover the meat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer gently for about 1 hour, or until the lamb is soft and tender. Stir occasionally and add a little more water if needed.

By this time, the eggplants should be ready. Remove them from the oven and place them in a large bowl. Cover with a lid or cling film and let them sit for 5 minutes — this makes them easier to peel. Peel off the skins, then finely chop and mash the flesh with a knife until puréed. Discard any large seeds if there are any. Set aside.

In a saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly with a whisk or wooden spoon, until the mixture becomes smooth, slightly golden, and bubbly (no longer crumbly). Gradually add the milk, stirring constantly, and cook until thick and smooth. The texture should be smooth, creamy, and flowing, like a loose custard.

Add the mashed eggplants to the sauce and stir until fully combined. Season with salt, black pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Remove from the heat.

(If using cheese, stir it in at this stage until melted, then remove from the heat.)

Spoon the beğendi onto serving plates and top with the lamb stew. Garnish with chopped parsley if desired.